History and mystery aplenty in Alor Setar

“Watch your steps ya? You don’t want to be stepping on anything sharp,” warns my genial host, Alan Teh Leam Seng, as we tread gingerly across some rubbles to reach a courtyard strewn with undergrowth. “See there,” points the Pulse & Vibes heritage writer to what must have been at one time a splendid grand staircase leading to the first floor of this majestic 3-storey structure. My eyes travel upwards and rest on a pair of full length shutters with jalousies on the upper part.

“Welcome to Istana Sepachendera… or what’s left of it!” exclaims Alan, his eyes behind his glasses dancing with mirth. The air around this palace ruins, located just behind Istana Kuning and within the grounds of Sekolah Menengah Islam Al-Haj, off Jalan Istana Lama, permeates with silent reverence. Meanwhile, the absence of a breeze only serves to add to the stillness. Suffice to say, it’s impossible not to feel awed.

Silently, I trail behind Alan as he proceeds towards the inner sanctum of the building, his eyes furtively scanning his surrounds. “See those tiles there, the pattern…” he says, voice low, pointing to an alcove where most of the tiles seem pretty intact. “Those tiles are original tiles. No one’s dared to steal them!”

Well, this is certainly turning out to be a most fascinating morning in Alor Setar, I muse to myself, as I hasten my steps to explore the rest of this old palace. I’d initially planned on simply whizzing through this sleepy Kedah capital, grab a coffee and quick chat, before departing home to Kuala Lumpur.

After all, having made the trip to this part of the world so often – and ticked off all the tourist boxes – I didn’t think there’d be much more to discover.

But I’m wrong. Thanks to my history – buff host, I’m starting to see his hometown in a new light. Alor Setar, so often overshadowed by its sister Langkawi, is more than just the iconic Alor Setar Tower, or the beautiful Zahir Mosque or vast expanse of padi fields. There’s plenty of other charms – and intrigues – waiting to be unearthed.

Here’s a selection of my favourites…

Istana Sepachendera

Off Jalan Istana Lama, Alor Setar

Also known as Istana Kampung Baru, after the name of the village where it’s located. A quick Google check later and I discover that the village no longer exists due to the extensive redevelopment, which has taken place over the years.

Despite being so hauntingly majestic and a true study in the architecture of its period, this palace is unfortunately not on the tourist map. You might need to make friends with the security guard stationed at the pondok (guardhouse) by the school gate to plead for a quick peek.

This magnificent palace, with its hints of Siamese features, was built in 1882 by the father of our first Prime Minister, Tunku Abdul Rahman Putra Al-Haj. Reigning from 1881 to 1943, Sultan Abdul Hamid Halim Shah had it built as a gift for his first wife, Che Sepachendera, a year after he ascended the throne.

The 3-storey tall palace (in some parts only two) is symmetrically-designed with walls that curve on both sides. The arches on the porch are supported by columns, and there’s an interesting-looking staircase that goes down to the left and right. Look closely and you might even spot a tongue extending out from the porch!

Many prince and princesses were born here, including His Royal Highness Tuanku Ibrahim, also known as Tuanku Sulung. After the passing of Che Sepachendera, the palace remained as a royal residence.

In 1922, it was converted into Sekolah Perempuan Kampung Baru, the first English school solely for girls in the state. By 1954, however, the school was moved to Jalan Langgar and renamed Sekolah Menengah Sultanah Asma.

The vacated premises subsequently became home to Sekolah Rendah Kebangsaan Tunku Abdul Halim as well as a branch of the Kedah State Education Department, before eventually becoming the grounds of Sekolah Menengah Islam Al-Haj.

Suffice to say, the palace is a pale shadow of its former glorious self. With some parts of the structure cloaked in dense undergrowth, and other parts in total disrepair, there’s an air of melancholy and mystery hovering above the palace. What will it evolve into next, the thought crosses my mind, as I take a final lingering look at the sprawling structure before bidding the friendly guard farewell.

Makam DiRaja Langgar (Langgar Royal Mausoleum)

Langgar, Kota Setar, Kedah

A solemn stillness permeates the air as I make my way into the well-kept compound of the Royal Mausoleum, which houses the final resting place of Kedah’s royalty. A lone caretaker, a straw hat shielding his face from the searing afternoon sun, throws me a jaunty wave as he notes my tentative entrance into the tranquil walled enclosure.

The sudden trill of a bird call takes me by surprise. Perched on the branch of a solitary tree, which seems to be shading a snow-white mausoleum, is a lone bird. Curious, I head towards it to find out which Kedah royal lies there. Unfortunately, my question remains unanswered as there’s no sign of a description. Even the kindly caretaker, who’s now by my side, is unable to shed any light. “But definitely someone of high standing,” he offers meekly, before leaving me to continue with his pruning.

Located in the village of Langgar, to the northeast of Alor Setar, this mausoleum, or cemetery dates back to 1701 and houses the tombs of various members of Kedah’s royal household, including the sultans and their consorts. Sultan Abdullah Muazzam Shah, who chose this area to be the royal burial town, was the first Sultan of Kedah to be buried here.

The tomb of our first Prime Minister, Tunku Abdul Rahman Putra Al-Haj can also be found here as too that of Kedah’s beloved Sultanah, and the first consort of Sultan Abdul Halim Muadzam Shah, the late Sultanah Bahiyah. There’s a modest gallery located in the main compound where visitors can learn more about the Kedah sultanate in addition to this mausoleum’s distinguished occupants.

Rumah Merdeka

Jalan Putra, Bandar Alor Setar, Alor Setar

No sojourn to Alor Setar would be complete without a visit to the home of our first Prime Minister, Tunku Abdul Rahman Putra Al-Haj, located along Jalan Putra, Alor Setar. With the afternoon sun high above my head, the sight of the entrance to Merdeka House, today maintained by the National Archives as a historical building, makes me quicken my pace, in part to escape the sweltering heat. Of course, I can’t wait to step foot inside the air-conditioned halls of this 2-storey bungalow, built on a piece of land previously owned by Tunku’s mother, Che Menjalara, before she bequeathed it to him.

A wave of nostalgia suddenly washes over me as I clap eyes on framed black and white photos of the elegant-looking Tunku in various scenes through history. “Would you like to see Tunku’s bedroom and where he spent his time listening to music and doing his writing?”

The sound of a deep male voice startles me from my reverie. I nod enthusiastically in response and the man, who I discover is the caretaker of the house, advises me to go up the staircase to the upper floor where all the rooms are located.

Through the course of the visit, I learn that the name Rumah Merdeka was actually given by Tunku’s friends, Senu Abdul Rahman, Tan Cheng Lock and Khir Johari who used to visit him on several occasions. Tunku had originally built a wooden house here during the Japanese Occupation in 1942, which he named Rumah Jalan Baru. The lower portion of the house was later rebuilt with bricks, but the top part was left wooden.

When Tunku became Prime Minister, he still returned to his childhood home whenever he was back in Kedah. By the time he retired, this beautiful house was used by leaders of UMNO for their meetings.

Sungai Anak Bukit, a tributary of the Kedah River, is located just behind the house. And there’s a pier from this house leading to the river. According to the caretaker, Tunku had his own motorboat and loved to cruise this river. This boat can be viewed in a pavilion within the compound of the house.

Café Diem

44-53, Jalan Penjara Lama, Bandar Alor Setar, Alor Setar

If you’re a fan of great coffee in nostalgic surroundings, or are just looking for a nice space to chill in between your wanderings, there’s no better place than Café Diem, a café located inside a restored shophouse serving excellent coffee and cake amidst British-colonial style décor.

With its rickety wooden staircase and dark wooden beams, aged wooden boats suspended above from steel beams, and natural light filtering in from the glass roof, Café Diem, owned by bubbly Kedahan Jackie Loo is a lovely space to while the time away.

According to one article detailing the building’s history, this double-storey structure, which enjoys a strategic duo frontage, with the front facing Pekan Cina, and side facing Jalan Penjara Lama, was constructed in 1896 in the-then British Malaya as a prison. The prison was eventually relocated to its present premises at Jalan Sultanah before the Japanese Occupation of Malaya in 1941.

The old building was subsequently sold to a private owner hailing from Penang who then proceeded to divide the ground floor into four smaller shop lots that fronted Jalan Penjara Lama. The shop lots were leased to a salted fish merchant, who occupied two lots, a tobacco leaf trader and a vegetable-cum-provisional shop owner whose company name, Kaew Hin & Co, can still be seen at the front of the building although dimmed somewhat by the white paint job.

WHERE TO STAY

StarCity Hotel

No. 88, Jalan Pintu Sepuluh, Alor Star, Kedah (www.starcity.com.my)

A favourite of mine whenever I’m in town is the StarCity Hotel, located near the Jalan Putra commercial area and surrounded by a matured neighbourhood of restaurants, healthcare centres, hotels, and one of Alor Setar’s happening malls, Aman Central.

Despite not having a swimming pool on its premises, this 3-star establishment delights nonetheless with its friendly service, well-furnished and well-equipped contemporary rooms, ranging from deluxe to executive suites, and its super strategic location.

Foodies will love the fact that they don’t need to go far to get to great local food. The hotel, whose sister hotel, the 2-star Fuller Hotel is just across the road, has even created a special food map that details interesting offerings which are literally 500 footsteps away. From delicious fish head curry to exquisite Japanese to great nasi lemak… there’s something for everyone.

Meanwhile, the hotel’s spacious coffee house, The Paddy, serves delectable local and western fare too and there’s also the option of tucking into steamboat and grill on the hotel rooftop as you watch the sun go down.

This Ramadan, the hotel is offering one of the cheapest Ramadan buffets around too. Priced at RM38nett, the theme is Middle Eastern and Kampong fare, with “Kambing Golek” thrown in daily for good measure!